LABEL PRINTING TECHNOLOGY: FLEXO VS DIGITAL

You do not need to know how a press works to buy labels. But three decisions — print method, color build and file setup — decide what your labels cost and whether they match the ones you ordered last year. This page explains what a printer means when those three come up.

Both produce excellent labels. They fail in different places, and the crossover is a matter of quantity and SKU count rather than quality. If someone tells you one is simply better, they probably only own one of them.

Digital (HP Indigo)Flexo / offset
SetupNone — no platesA plate per color, per design
Best run lengthShort to mediumLong
Many designsCheap — versions cost almost nothingExpensive — each version needs plates
Brand colorSimulated in CMYK, very closeMixed as a true spot ink, exact
MetallicsFoil stamp as a second passMetallic ink or foil inline
TurnaroundFaster — no plate making stepLonger on a first run, quick on repeats

We decide which press your job runs on, and you are quoted the same either way — the economics below are ours to manage, not yours. As a rule of thumb: multiple SKUs, frequent artwork changes or runs in the hundreds go digital, because plates would cost more than the print. A single design in the tens of thousands, or a brand color that has to be exact, goes conventional, because the plate cost amortizes and a mixed spot ink beats a simulation.

If you are between the two, tell us your reorder pattern rather than just this order’s quantity. The right answer usually depends on what you will print next.

On a conventional press each color needs its own plate — a flexo plate carries the image in relief, an offset plate carries it chemically on a flat surface, but either way it is a plate carrying that color’s portion of the image. Four-color artwork means four plates, and a spot color means a fifth. That is why adding one extra brand color to a conventional job is a real cost, and why changing the artwork means new plates rather than just a new file. Digital has no plates at all, which is the whole reason short runs and multi-version jobs are affordable.

  • Resolution at final printed size
  • Fonts outlined or embedded
  • Bleed and safe area measured against the die
  • Color build — particularly small black type
  • Overprint and knockout settings
  • White layer present on clear and kraft stocks
  • Die line on its own named spot layer
  • Total ink coverage on dense artwork

You get a written report and free revisions. See file setup for what to send.

A monitor emits light and mixes red, green and blue. A press lays ink on a substrate and mixes cyan, magenta, yellow and black. Some colors a screen can show simply cannot be reproduced in ink — vivid oranges and deep blues most often.

Process builds every color from CMYK. Spot uses a pre-mixed ink matched to a Pantone reference. If your brand color has to be identical across every run and every substrate — and someone will hold last year’s label against this year’s — specify the Pantone and we will quote it as a spot. Otherwise process is close enough that nobody without the two side by side would call it.

Small type set in a four-color rich black needs all four inks to register perfectly, and at 6pt they will not — it reads as fuzz. Build small text in 100% K only. Large solid areas are the opposite: 100% K alone looks washed out and wants a rich black build. Full explanation: plain black versus rich black.

Digital can change something on every single label in a run — a batch code, a serial number, a name, a different flavor on each pass — for no extra plate cost, because there are no plates. If you are printing twelve flavors, or numbering a limited run, this is the reason the job goes digital and the reason it is affordable. It is also the one thing conventional printing cannot do at any price without a separate pass.

Everything above explains why a screen cannot tell you what a press will do. The answer is not to worry about it — it is to order a printed proof on your actual material before the run. It is an option in the quote form under type of proof: a soft proof is a PDF, a hard proof is a real printed sample. If the color has to be right, take the hard proof.

  • Lamination — gloss or matte film bonded over the print, adding scratch and moisture resistance as well as finish
  • Spot UV — a raised gloss varnish on chosen elements only, so one detail steps forward without adding another color
  • Foil stamping — metallic foil applied with a die, hot or cold. Cold foil runs inline and suits fine detail; hot foil gives the crispest edge
  • Embossing and debossing — the substrate itself raised or recessed, felt rather than seen
  • Foil embossing and blind embossing — foil and relief together, or relief alone with no ink at all
  • 3D raised ink and matte spot varnish — texture without a die, and a flat matte accent against a gloss laminate
  • Diecutting — the outline. Exact sizes cost nothing extra; die cut fees apply only to non-standard shapes

Go straight to spot UV labels, foil stamped labels or embossed labels.

Every effect needs its own 100% K spot layer named for the effect, sitting above your artwork. Keep foil and spot UV off small type — under 8pt they fill in and read as a smudge. Send the layered file, not a flattened preview.

Sheets suit hand application and short runs, and turn around faster. Rolls are what an applicator needs, and are easier to handle in volume even by hand. If you have a machine, the roll specification has to match it — core size, roll diameter and unwind direction are all part of the order, not afterthoughts.

Unwind direction has eight possible answers and one is right for your machine. Get it wrong and it is a reprint, not an adjustment: why wind direction for roll labels is important.

See roll labels and sheet labels.

  • Bleed — artwork extended past the cut line so no white edge appears
  • Registration — how precisely each color lines up with the others
  • Knockout — an element removed from the layers beneath it
  • Overprint — an element printed on top rather than knocked out
  • Trapping — a slight overlap between colors to hide misregistration
  • Caliper — thickness of the facestock, measured in mil
  • Anilox — the engraved roller that meters ink onto a flexo plate
  • Substrate — whatever is being printed on
  • Spot color — a pre-mixed ink, as opposed to one built from CMYK
  • Prepress — everything between receiving your file and putting it on press

Usually a process build rather than a spot. CMYK simulations drift slightly between substrates — the same file on kraft and on white film will not read identically, because the material underneath is a different color. If exact match matters across materials, specify a Pantone.

Four-color black at small sizes. Any tiny registration variance shows as colored fringing. Rebuild small type as 100% K and it sharpens immediately.

A screen shows about 72–110 PPI; a press resolves far more. Raster images need to be at least 350 DPI at final printed size — enlarging a small image to fit does not add detail. See what PPI should I use for printing.

Fonts that were not outlined or embedded get substituted. Outline them before sending: how to outline fonts in Illustrator. Keep an un-outlined master for future edits.

White is not printed by default — it is the absence of ink. On clear film or kraft, white artwork shows the substrate through. Ask for a white underlayer and it will be built as a separate spot layer.


Most of what is above matters because it changes what you should order. If you are applying by machine, that is roll labels — and the spec conversation is free.